Aside from being the last Vingt-8, the new 28MPR offers several attractive features. First, this is (from what I can tell), the first serially-produced traditional moonphase from Voutilainen. The moonphase disc itself is, for the first time, made entirely at Brodbeck Guillochage, in beautiful blue Grand Feu enamel, with some beautiful depth. The dial, as one would expect from a Voutilainen, is a masterpiece of four hand-guilloché styles. The example I photographed featured an orange-hued salmon dial, but, like any Voutilainen, it can be customized in color, pattern, and more. At 12 o’clock, you have the indication for the 65-hour power reserve.
Then there’s the case, which is a new refinement. Now 37.5mm in diameter, one of the smallest serially-produced Vingt-8 ever made, and it measures only 12.6mm thick. Thickness has often been cited as an issue—even by me—but the new case profile has a concave bezel that doesn’t appear thick on the wrist. The 28MPR also has straight lugs, which is an interesting but potentially welcome choice for many collectors. I know several people who have ordered Voutilainen watches recently and have chosen to abandon what was once his signature teardrop lugs. Whether it’s the proliferation of the shape, the renewed interest in Urban Jürgensen, or something else, I know several people who have ordered “sport” lugs lately. This is another nice option. The piece will be available in 15 pieces each in steel, platinum, and titanium. The case, lugs, and crown are made in-house.