Welcome to the second match in the Fratello Dress Watch Season contest, our effort to identify the best new dress watch of 2025. The series continues with a duo of proper heavy hitters. Match two in round one sees Jorg defending the Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition. Daan will make his case for the popular Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in rose gold. Let’s determine which of these two watches will progress to the semifinals.
As you know by now, these contestants were among the eight watches that won our initial public vote last weekend. You, the Fratelli, voted for your favorites from a long list of possible contenders, and today’s Chopard and Jaeger-LeCoultre were two of them. Let’s see what Jorg and Daan have to say about each.
Jorg: Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition
Today’s battle is tough for me because I absolutely adore both of these watches. Fate has decided that I’ll defend the stunning Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition. Daan will make a case for the equally brilliant Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds. It’s tough, but if you ask me, there is no right or wrong, so what makes the Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition the better pick? Lex labeled it “a certified dream watch,” and that perfectly grasps the essence of this timepiece.
Take one glance at the L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition, and you’ll realize it is the product of exquisite craftsmanship. The levels of excellence it displays meet the highest certification standards. As a result, the Fondation Qualité Fleurier (Fleurier Quality Foundation) granted the watch the Qualité Fleurier seal.
Lex explained the history of the Fondation Qualité Fleurier in more detail in his review. But more importantly for this story, it represents a standard in watchmaking. To earn the Qualité Fleurier seal, a watch must pass COSC chronometer tests, the watch head must be 100% Swiss made, and the finishing, durability, and reliability must meet incredibly high standards.
The only thoroughbred dress watch in this matchup
Qualifying for the Qualité Fleurier seal is no insignificant feat. In fact, it’s one that Daan’s Reverso is far from achieving. Will that alone help my Chopard win this contest? Probably not, but there is more to the story. Excuse me for a moment while I put on my purist hat.
The point of this contest is to find the best dress watch of 2025, isn’t it? With that in mind, the L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition is a classic dress watch, but the Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds is not. We all know the story of the Reverso, which debuted as a sports watch and turned into a dress watch over time. While I love that story, and time does change perspectives, the Chopard is the thoroughbred here (a horse reference only seemed fitting in a matchup with the Reverso).
With that purism also comes a style and execution that make a classic luxury dress watch so impressive. It all starts with the beautifully sculpted yellow gold case with the characteristic elongated and welded lugs. It’s dress-watch romance at its finest and something you won’t find with the Reverso. This case has a 39mm diameter, a lithe 8.92mm thickness, and a 46.5mm lug-to-lug length. These beautiful proportions give it a vintage character and modern-day appeal.
A wonderful and perfectly executed sector-style dial
Chopard combined the case with a stunning two-tone gilded brass dial displaying a mix of beautifully executed finishes. As Lex explained, the sunburst satin-finished center is encircled by a circular-brushed chapter ring. Additionally, the concentric-grained sub-seconds register at 6 o’clock adds texture and depth to the dial. Hovering above all this is a set of syringe-style hands with a healthy dose of Super-LumiNova.
Overall, the dial’s execution shows more great craftsmanship, leading to a watch that oozes class. Just look at the arrowhead-shaped applied markers with the little lume dots next to them. Additionally, the hands are not a traditional syringe shape but have a slightly different, angular form. As a result, they stand out as perfect pieces of the puzzle. Every detail here is so meticulously executed that it’s hard not to be in awe of this beautiful watch.
The L.U.C 96.09-L caliber
The magic continues if you turn the watch around. This is where the L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition truly shows its superiority over the gold Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds. The latter uses the latest version of the fairly basic JLC caliber 822, but Chopard’s L.U.C 96.09-L movement is on a whole other level.
While it’s not a new creation, it is a sophisticated version of the brand’s celebrated micro-rotor caliber. This 3.3mm-thick movement features Chopard Twin technology. That means that the 22K gold bidirectional-winding micro-rotor provides power to two stacked barrels, resulting in a modern 65-hour power reserve.
However, the watchmaking technology is only one noteworthy aspect. In addition to that, the finishing of the individual parts is nothing short of impressive. The bridges are decorated with Côtes de Genève and feature beveled edges that make them look excellent. The abundance of engravings also reminds you of the details that make the watch and its caliber so special.
Rigorously tested to the highest standards
This brings me to the last important point about this movement, which is its performance after rigorous testing. First, the caliber earned a COSC chronometer certification, confirming its precision over a 15-day evaluation. Next, it also passed the Chronofiable protocol, a three-week gauntlet simulating years of wear.
This means that before reaching the customer, the watch was already exposed to temperature changes, humidity, magnetic fields, repeated winding and crown manipulation, and shocks, and it emerged unscathed. Finally, the watch passed the Fleuritest, a 24-hour simulation of real-world wrist wear, and it maintained an average daily deviation of between 0 and +5 seconds.
If that is not impressive, what is? Overall, I think the Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition is not just the more stylish dress watch of these two. Just as importantly, the technology and craftsmanship required to bring it to life are superior to the Reverso. No matter how much I love the Reverso, as a classic dress watch, the L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition is on another level, and that’s why I feel it should win in this battle. But let us know why you think I’m wrong, Daan.
Daan: Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds
Thanks, Jorg, for showing us once more what an impressive watch the Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition is. You’re also completely right when you say that this is actually a battle between a pure dress watch and something that originally debuted as a sports watch. However, we’re not debating the definition of a dress watch here. As long as our dear readers consider a watch to be elegant enough, it can win our Dress Watch Season competition. In the initial public poll that determined the eight contenders, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in rose gold had the most votes, so I guess that legitimizes its participation.
And no, this Reverso didn’t receive any specific objective seal. However, I would like to stress that Jaeger-LeCoultre did put the watch through its in-house 1000 Hours Control testing program. This subjects the assembled watch to a series of simulations over six weeks to ensure real-world performance. They include balance and amplitude testing in six positions, a power reserve check, and a simulation of daily wear, and tests for temperature, water, shock, magnetism, and air resistance. That process seems pretty rigorous and impressive, don’t you think, Jorg?
Rose gold galore
The other impressive feature of this Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds is its rose gold armor. Like the 39mm Chopard, the 27.4mm by 45.6mm Reverso Tribute Monoface case is a bit too big for my 17cm wrist, especially for a dress watch. However, with a 7.56mm profile, it’s slightly thinner than the L.U.C, so it slides under a cuff more easily. Both the classic Art Deco Reverso case and the dial with a grained finish are made of 18K rose gold. The sharp Tribute-style applied hour markers and the dauphine hands catch the light beautifully, so you can still read the time.
But the real showstopper here is the 18K rose gold Milanese bracelet. The threads used for it are thinner than thin, which makes it a joy to wear on the wrist. It’s also very finely woven and looks oh-so elegant from any angle. Many people have tried to put their Reversos on bracelets, but most didn’t realize that a mesh one would make the watch look this irresistible. It’s also very convenient because the sliding clasp lets you adjust it to the exact length you want. In addition, its design is based on the chain mail from 13th-century Milan. That means it’s also fairly strong, so you don’t have to worry that this beautiful piece will fall off your wrist.
The most elegant party trick
Like the Chopard, the JLC uses an older but very reliable movement. It’s a hand-wound caliber that mimics the Reverso’s rectangular shape. Unfortunately, it isn’t visible through any sapphire window, but it probably also wouldn’t be as impressive as the Chopard’s micro-rotor movement. However, what you do see when you flip the swiveling case is the beautiful sunray engraving hiding beneath it.
In addition, like the original Reverso from 1931, this Monoface version has a blank canvas on its backside. Of course, this was originally meant to protect the dial when the wearer was playing polo, but you can also decorate it with an engraving. I love the Art Deco alphabet that JLC developed, and I’m sure your initials would look great on that rose gold canvas. It’ll make the most elegant party trick in the industry even more impressive.
Time to cast your vote
It’s a shame, but one of these two beautiful watches will have to leave the competition already. Is it going to be the €33,000 Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition, or will it be the €44,800 Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in rose gold? Your vote will help decide which watch continues to the next round. Also, make sure to let us know in the comments below why you voted the way you did.
Chopard L.U.C Qualité Fleurier 20th Anniversary Edition vs. Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds