Happy New Year, everyone! We hope you had a great end to 2025 and a fresh start to 2026. On this first Friday of the year, we continue our series of lists covering the best watches of 2025. Today’s list highlights watches that you may have overlooked last year. Here are the five watches that surprised us the most. I must add that they surprised us in all the right ways and thoroughly surpassed our expectations, so let’s start the year off by remembering them fondly.
Before we kick 2026’s series of lists into gear, allow me a quick word on how we compiled this one. We created a list halfway through 2025 that we also used as input for this. But we swapped some of the watches on it for ones that came out later in the year. Additionally, we reconsidered what “surprising” means to us. We concluded that it means more than just something we didn’t see coming. It also has to do with the broader context of a release or changing our opinions once a timepiece landed on our desk. Whatever the reason may be, these are our five most surprising watches of 2025.
Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence in rose gold
We’ll kick this list off with the rose gold Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence. As Thomas explained, it’s not often that a watch properly surprises us, and it was also part of the list we made six months ago. Louis Vuitton managed to surprise us with the Tambour Convergence thanks to its montre à guichet layout. It results in a unique design that is definitely not for everyone.
But on top of that, the craftsmanship is impressive. The Tambour Convergence was released in rose gold and platinum. The latter version is snow-set with diamonds, making it far more opulent than the rose gold one you see in the pictures. As you will understand, though, we chose the former as the opener for our list of the most surprising watches of 2025.
As I also explained six months ago, the French term montre à guichet loosely translates to “window watch.” However, that leaves considerable room for interpretation in designing a “window” layout. The Cartier Tank à Guichets is the most famous reference for this style of watch. It uses different apertures to display the time digitally, which is the most common way to do it.
The unique way of displaying the time
However, as you can see, the designers at Louis Vuitton chose a different approach. At the top, you see two arched apertures that display the hours and minutes. The outer disc displays the hours and continuously rotates slowly, while the smaller disc below it displays the minutes. But that is not the entire story because it may take some mental adjustment to read the time.
As Thomas explained, a montre à guichet like this can display the hours in two ways. The first is by reversing the caliber inside the case, which causes the time to progress forward. The second way is to leave the direction as standard and reverse the hours on the rotating disc compared to how they would sit on a traditional dial. The watchmakers at Louis Vuitton chose the latter option. This means, for instance, that at 10:30, the lozenge-shaped marker sits behind the 10 rather than ahead of it. Despite the different way of displaying the time, the numerals for the upcoming and past hour are always visible, providing a visual reference that makes reading the time easier.
The newly developed movement inside
Making all that watchmaking magic happen is the newly developed caliber LFT MA01.01. This automatic movement operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and offers 45 hours of power reserve. It features a free-sprung balance, and thanks to the case back’s sapphire display, we can see the wonderfully finished 18K gold rotor, perlage, and blasted finishes.
The caliber sits inside in a classical round 37mm × 8mm rose gold case full of wonderful details. From the elegant lugs to the brilliant finishing, we were truly impressed by the watchmaking magic the team at La Fabrique du Temps Louis Vuitton displayed with this wonderfully surprising rose gold Louis Vuitton Tambour Convergence.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Monoface Small Seconds in pink gold
Our next pick was one of the nicest surprises during Watches and Wonders 2025. In all honesty, we were lucky to get a sneak preview, and when we saw the pink gold Reverso with that spectacular bracelet, we were in awe. Robert-Jan and I, in particular, showered this stunning Reverso with praise.
The pink gold case paired with the matching mesh bracelet is a thing of beauty. But that’s only where it begins. The lovely details reveal themselves slowly as you zoom in. The standout feature is the textured dial accented by a sub-seconds register at 6 o’clock. Contrasting the refined texture of the dial are the beautifully finished hour markers and razor-sharp dauphine hands. The applied rose gold logo and the brand’s name printed in black are the perfect sign-off for this beautiful creation.
So, what makes it so surprising? We have seen pink gold Reversos before, haven’t we? That is true, but we haven’t seen a statement piece like this from Jaeger-LeCoultre in a long time. Usually, the Reverso is stylish, chic, and sophisticated in its presence. But this monochromatic Reverso is something completely different.
It immediately demands attention without being loud. Additionally, the designers at Jaeger-LeCoultre made sure there is plenty of detail to admire. The big story, of course, is the handmade Milanese bracelet, which requires 16 meters of pink gold wire. It’s a beautiful display of craftsmanship that results in a watch that is super comfortable to wear. On top of that, its integrated sliding clasp is a fantastic solution to provide the perfect fit on the wrist.
In a year focusing on the Reverso, this was the standout release
I could go on and elaborate on all the details, like the perfectly proportioned 27.4 × 45.6 × 7.56mm case or the classic JLC caliber 822. But those are the familiar parts of the story. If you want to know all about that, I suggest that you read Robert-Jan’s review of the watch.
As he explained, it is a marvelous watch that made him reconsider buying a Reverso. In a year in which Jaeger-LeCoultre focused on the Reverso in many guises, this model was the absolute standout. At €44,800, this is the new gold standard for the Reverso. After seeing this surprising pink gold version, we would also love JLC to release one in yellow gold. Still, it would not be as much of a surprise as this rose gold version that left us swooning.
Richard Mille RM 16-02 Automatic Extraflat Terracotta Quartz TPT
This next pick was also featured in our list six months ago. Additionally, it made an appearance in the honorable mentions on my list of the best watches of 2025. If you had told me 12 months ago that I would feature a Richard Mille watch in a year-end list, I would have laughed. Nevertheless, it has become a reality, and I must add that I am not the only Fratello team member who enjoyed this brick-colored creation. While the RM 16-02 is not a new silhouette, the update going from the RM 016 to the new duo of RM 16-02 models is more than just a story of a new color. This latest version updates the design and introduces surprising new materials.
The presence of the Richard Mille RM 16-02 Automatic Extraflat made of Terracotta Quartz TPT is truly something else. As mentioned, it was part of a duo of 16-02 releases that brought back the RM 016 silhouette. The model first appeared in 2007 as Richard Mille’s first rectangular watch. Almost two decades later, the updated version demonstrates that it remains as relevant as it was back when it first came out.
The new RM 16-02 is a great evolution from the early RM 016
For this new duo, the brand decided to mix things up. The first of the two models features a more conventional titanium case and a cream-colored strap, and it adheres to the aesthetic of the original models. But it’s all about the second version with its distinct brick-colored presence. The watch features a 36 × 45.64 × 9.5mm case crafted from quartz TPT in a terracotta tone. The case, both front and back, is created by layering 45-micron silica threads at 45° angles in a colored matrix. After that, it is heated, pressurized, milled, and connected to a creamy-white quartz TPT mid-case.
Especially with the burgundy rubber strap, the colors immediately make the watch stand out. Add the rectangular shape and open-worked dial, and this timepiece looks like none other. The terracotta color has a warmth that, for me, evokes strong Mediterranean associations.
The Richard Mille RM 16-02 is an exceptional creation
Inside the watch, you will find the brand’s CRMA9 caliber, which complements the case’s distinctive presence beautifully. As I explained six months ago, the open movement uses a rectangular titanium baseplate to match the case shape. The movement is a modern labyrinth of elements, characterized by the 67 chamfered openings in the baseplate. The bridges are made of colored titanium, and the movement’s various components are finished beautifully, including the angular platinum winding rotor.
Protecting the caliber is a sapphire crystal that features cut-off numerals and an angular line connecting them. It adds a great, stylish, but equally functional touch to this futuristic creation. If there is one thing I would change about the RM 16-02 Automatic Extraflat, it is the size. Indeed, it is far from small. Overall, though, I can say that my initial surprise was quickly replaced by admiration for this €225,000 timepiece.
Rolex Submariner Date desk clock
Our fourth pick is not a wristwatch. When we first heard about a Rolex Submariner desk clock, we knew we wanted to review one. Once we did, we were really surprised by how good it was. I won’t go into all the details because you can read about them in the review I wrote about this surprising creation. But it all starts with the 80mm Submariner design that greets you when you open the box. It is wonderful to see how the Rolex designers were able to enlarge the famous design without losing its proportions.
Additionally, all the familiar elements are present. It begins with the glossy black dial featuring applied indexes filled with the brand’s proprietary Chromalight luminescent material. It is matched with a black ceramic bezel with white markings. Additionally, the famous Rolex branding motif also returns on the rehaut. The one big difference is the text on the dial. As you can see, there is less text here than there is on the watch’s dial. The brand’s name and the iconic coronet are at the top, while the “Submariner” name is the only large text on the lower half.
The quality of the Rolex Submariner clock is hard to deny
The moment you take the clock out of the iconic green Rolex box, you get a sense of the production quality. The 316L steel case is quite heavy, and when you pick it up, you will see the two-part hemispherical design in all its glory. Rolex adds a little circular pedestal that the clock sits on. This allows you to rotate the clock in any direction, making it easy to use. Powering this desk clock is the brand’s ana-digi quartz caliber 8335. The movement has 30 jewels and features a secular calendar. Additionally, it has wonderful finishing, including a polished chamfer and Côtes de Genève.
However, to see this, you will need to open the clock. If you turn the front part of the case until it can’t go further, you will be able to pull it outward. That reveals the caliber in all its glory. That is also when you feel the incredible quality of this desk clock. It feels heavy and incredibly well machined.
In addition to showing the time and date on the front, the movement displays the current month and year on a small LCD screen on the back. As it is a secular calendar, it does not require manual corrections every 100 years until 2400, unlike a perpetual calendar.
Additionally, the caliber allows you to reverse the date by turning the hands counterclockwise. This new Rolex Submariner Date desk clock is an impressive timepiece that is more than just one of the brand’s accessories. It can be the centerpiece of your desk for €10,320. This sum will buy you one of this year’s most fun surprises. And if the comments on our review are any indication, it will certainly be quite a conversation starter!
Hermès Arceau Rocabar de Rire
We ended the list six months ago with this watch, and there is no reason why we should not do the same thing again. The Hermès Arceau Rocabar de Rire is not only the most surprising watch of this year but also the most fun. Just take one look at the dial of the Hermès Arceau Rocabar de Rire, and you will understand why we lovingly renamed the watch “Licky the Horse” here at Fratello.
We sincerely hope that the person who devised the idea for “Licky the Horse” received a nice year-end bonus. To develop a Hermès Arceau with a special dial with the image of a horse that can mechanically stick out its tongue is simply brilliant.
Not only is it brilliantly fun, but it’s also a proper technical tour de force. It all starts with a 41mm white gold or rose gold Arceau case with its round shape and signature lugs. This case houses the colorful and whimsical dial. The horse on it was modeled after Dimitri Rybaltchenko’s Rocabar de Rire striped scarf. The scarf was introduced in 2023 and is made of a mix of cashmere and silk in different color combinations, as Daan explained. On the scarf, you will find the brown horse that sticks its tongue out while looking over its shoulder.
The whimsical dial of “Licky the Horse”
The Hermès designers decided to recreate that image on the dial. However, they chose to animate it. Every time you engage the pusher at 9 o’clock, the horse sticks out its tongue. As you will understand, it is so tempting to click the pusher again and again and laugh out loud as a result. Everyone on the Fratello team who witnessed the magic was instantly sold. To this day, we hear “Licky the Horse” shouted through the Fratello office at least once a week.
Unfortunately, there is only a minuscule number of people who get to enjoy this cheeky horse. Hermès produced only 12 pieces of this wonderful item. The 12 buyers were able to choose between a blue or green dial with colorful stripes. Responsible for the watch’s mechanical whimsy is the automatic H1837 movement. It operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour and provides a 50-hour power reserve. That’s plenty of power to have fun with the animated horse on the dial. “Licky” was available for €163,000 in white gold and €168,000 in rose gold. What the buyer got in return is priceless, unadulterated fun.
Final thoughts on the most surprising watches of 2025
There you have it — our five picks for the most surprising watches that came out in 2025. We saw numerous significant releases from various brands this year, but all the watches featured here indeed had a massive impact on the Fratello team. Now, though, I want to turn the question to you. What were some of the biggest horological surprises of the year for you? Let us know in the comments section, and we will see you again for a new list next week.